Bars or liquid soaps with a larger scrubby surface are commonly referred to as “mechanic soap.” Hand exfoliants are helpful for getting rid of oil and grime that accumulates on working hands. I added pumice (five tablespoons) and walnut shells to these bars so that they would exfoliate well (eight tablespoons). Due of their fine grain sizes, products like pumice and walnut shells are efficient without causing severe scratching. These bars may be used everywhere on the body; however, I wouldn’t recommend putting them on your face because of how delicate the skin is. Beneficial for use on rough spots like elbows, knees, and heels.
For the sake of minimalism, I omitted all sort of coloring from these bars and gave them a very basic design. Sometimes the simplest answer is the one that works best. The walnut shells add a naturally warm tone. When I added the orange 10X essential oil to the batter, it turned a beautiful shade of orange, however I noticed that the color faded as the soap set. The pumice won’t change the hue of the soap, but it will speed up the baking process. When using pumice at trace levels, it is recommended to first disperse the pumice in oil to break up any clumps that may have developed.
Soaping oils I was already using were melted and mixed, so I used it to distribute the pumice rather than adding more oil to the formula. This is very subjective and depends on the individual. When I wish to disperse my colorants, I often use a very light oil; in fact, I consider this oil to be a touch superfat. I omitted the whole 5 tablespoons of additional oil asked for in the recipe so that the bars would still be delicious and effective for cleaning, though. Also, remember that increasing the oil content may result in a thicker lather that will be more challenging and time-consuming to remove. These bars will harden more rapidly because to the 5% superfat and 12% water discount already built into the formulation. To learn more about how soap loses its efficacy when exposed to water, go here.
Round silicone mold with 12 bars.
9.6 oz. Butter (30%)
9.6 oz. Olive Oil (Constituting 30%)
9.6 oz. Coconut Oil (70%)
1.6 oz. Roughly five percent castor oil
1.6 oz. Butter extracted from cocoa beans (5%).
9.4 oz. Purified Water (still water receives a 12% price reduction)
4.6 oz. Caustic Soda (NaOH)
1.7 oz. Oil of Orange, 10X
5 Tbs. Pumice
8 Tbs. Conchas de noel
If you’ve never made soap using the Cold Process, you should probably stop right here. It is crucial that you see our FREE four-part SoapQueen.tv series on cold-process soapmaking; in particular, the episode on lye safety. Plus, if you’d rather learn more by reading, Bramble Berry has a wide selection of books on the topic, including the most up-to-date version of my own book, Pure Soapmaking. And if you’re looking for something to satisfy your cravings right away, you should check out the digital downloads.
WEAR PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT AND USE SAFE HANDLING PRACTICES! That requires you to put on certain safety gear, such goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Before you begin soaping, you should ensure that there are no interruptions in the form of children, pets, or other possible trip hazards. Soap up in a well-ventilated area at all times.
Preparing the scent requires transferring orange 10X essential oil (1.7 ounces) to a fragrance-safe glass container. Take out of the way.
Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water, and keep stirring the mixture until the lye is entirely dissolved and the water is clear. Keep warm things away for later.
Mix the melted coconut oil, cocoa butter, castor oil, palm oil, and olive oil in step two (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). As soon as the lye water and oil temperatures drop below 130 degrees (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other). In a small container, combine five tablespoons of pumice and five teaspoons of the soaping oils. Don’t forget to combine the two components in the container. This is beneficial since it prevents clumping without increasing the soap’s oil content unnecessarily. Take out of the way.
In the third step, use the stick blender to thoroughly combine the lye water and the oils until a thin trace is produced. You may make a bar of soap that will stay longer and be easier to remove from the mold if, after the lye water has cooled, you add sodium lactate to it. This is done so that the sodium lactate can combine with the lye water. It is recommended that one teaspoon of sodium lactate be used for every pound of oils that are called for in the recipe. This particular recipe calls for around 2 tablespoons of sodium lactate, which can be located in the baking section of most grocery stores.
After you have achieved a thin trace, add the orange essential oil 10X to the mixture, and use the stick blender to thoroughly combine it. To prevent the mixture from becoming too sticky, only combine it for brief periods of time and then stir it with the blender.
Adding the pumice mixture to the soap and incorporating it using a stick blender is the FIFTH step in the process. The viscosity of the substance will increase as a direct result of this.
In step six, use a whisk to incorporate the ground walnuts (there should be around 8 teaspoons worth).
SEVEN: If your batter can be poured, fill each mold to the same level to provide an even appearance. My dough ended up being somewhat thick due to the combination of the ingredients and the decreased quantity of water, so I had to use a spoon to fill each hole. Tap the mold hard on the surface of the counter to assist in the removal of any air bubbles (make sure those goggles are on; beware of splashing soap when tapping).
It is important to give the soap at least a few days, and ideally two, to cure while it is still in the mold. Take it out of the mold and let it sit somewhere for between four and six weeks so that it may cure. In order to give the soaps a more polished look on the exterior and the top, the Soap Shaver was utilized; however, participation in this procedure was entirely voluntary.